Day 21- Big Bend National Park

A day off our bicycles and an auto tour of Big Bend NP. Bubba organized an eight vehicle day long visit to one of the national parks that I had not visited. I took more pictures here than all the rest of the trip. However, I will need more time to sort and post them.

We started the day with a big breakfast cooked by Chef Ann and set out for the park. It is an astonishing collection of stark and bleak desert landscapes surrounding the Chizos Mountain oasis with elevations up to 8000 ft. You find evergreens, oaks and the southern most stand of aspen growing there in the midst of desert. We learned that this park as well as so many others, benefited in the 1930's from the work of the CCC to construct roads and the Chizos Mtn lodge and cottages. They all enjoy a magnificent view through a Window on the mountains looking out to the plain leading down to the Rio Grande River.

Day 20- Marfa to Marathon

We camped at Ei Cosmico, which even the office manager and long term Marfa resident described as 'quirky.' That said, the outdoor showers were just chilly as you tried to dry yourself and the tents and luggage were full of dust. So, what's a little dirt?

The group of us who went in search of the lights were disappointed but we did see a spectacular display of stars in the clear night sky.

Today's route was short, mostly downhill and with a strong wind at our back. We stopped on the way out of town to look at their courthouse (see first, above). We then went over Paisano Pass, which was a gentle climb from the west. Nice day of easy riding before taking tomorrow off to investigate Big Bend NP.

The fast pace allowed for a leisurely stop in Alpine and included a visit to a bike shop and a bakery with monster sized cinnamon buns. Tonight we are camping outside the little, but surprisingly prosperous town of Marathon. Here's a picture of the local hotel, Gage, named after a local rancher originally from Vermont:

Day 19- Van Horn to Marfa

This was one of the rides that I had most anticipated. I had always wanted to visit Marfa, a town of artists and ranchers supposedly living in cosmic harmony in West Texas. We are planning a ride out this evening to view the Marfa lights. They and the town have been featured recently on 60 Minutes and in the NYTimes.

The ride itself was an uneventful extended slight uphill from the beginning and ending with a downhill into Marfa and a DQ as a reward. The wind worked for us today. We had a nice homemade lunch in Valentine at their library, saw some antelope at a distance and were stopped and reprimanded by an over zealous deputy sherif. He will be having a little chit-chat this evening with Bubba, who just happens to have been a St Louis police officer .

Day 18- Ft Hancock to Van Horn

Character was built and we crossed into Central Time today. The day's ride started early due to the length and climbs but more importantly to mitigate the forecast increase in winds coming again out of the East. We initially passed through more farms and ranches in the Rio Grande River valley.

The route took on a different character after the first rest stop. We used the shoulder on I-10 for the first time. Many may recognize that I-10 is the major highway crossing the southern US from Santa Monica, CA to Jacksonville, FL. We left the very rough surface of the shoulder after only 2.5 miles and traversed the adjoining frontage roads for most of the day. The remainder of the morning was occupied with climbing while being buffeted by cross/ headwinds. (Or were those cross headwinds?) The lunch stop at yet another cute Mexican cafe, Micheals in Sierra Blanca, was a relief. The hardest part of the day came upon us then. An easterly wind blew right at us as we rode the next 22 miles. We did organize ourselves into 4-6 person pace lines to shelter us a bit against the tormenting wind. We finished the ride by returning to the I-10 shoulder for 8.5 miles of climb and downhill into Van Horn. Cute KOA campground overnight and early to bed. Exhausted!

My daughter, Emily, and I talked about training for something like this ride. It's true that you cannot really prepare adequately for 7 weeks of daily bike rides. Nevertheless I have heard that most riders have riden frequently on many week long events and extended daily rides. One rider logged 5000 miles since last Sept. Of course, he lives in Florida. I tried to ride daily and occasionally undertake longer rides to build my confidence as much as any physical capabilities. 

One of our speakers in Gila Bend was a 70 year old ultra-marathon runner and psychiatrist. He noted that he was not getting any faster as he aged but his endurance was increasing. He said what were undertaking was of 'epic' and success was almost entirely mental rather than physical. Interesting, eh?

Day 17- El Paso to Ft Hancock

What a difference a day makes. Yesterday our hard ride ended with an entry into El Paso through what can only be described as post-industrial apocalypse moonscape. This morning in utter contrast we traversed a lovely neighborhood of older homes on our way directly through a quite modern downtown. We left El Paso riding in a generally southeast direction through pecan orchards and irrigated rich farmland along the Rio Grande River.

The ride itself was a delightful reward of a short route, light winds and flat terrain in contrast again to Sunday's effort. We are spending the night in the local high school gym and going to bed early in anticipation of a longer ride and return of headwinds tomorrow. Our chef, Ann, provided us a yummy Asian theme dinner. We had three self-contained cross country riders as guests and we encountered as women's bike tour that will be riding the same route with us for a few days.

Day 16- Columbus, NM to El Paso, TX

Welcome to Texas, our fourth state and one in which we will stay 19 days and ride 1035 miles. 

Today's ride began and ended 77 miles later in a cold headwind. The consensus among the riders is that today was the hardest ride so far and was like a day long uphill climb at 10-13 mph with no relief. One rider commented that she was "close to tears" and many observed that the constant wind sapped your strength as well as spirit. I found the headwind from the East difficult but was troubled as much by the cold temperature that persisted thorouout the day. We left Columbus with a temperature of 42F and I kept on my jacket all day. We did learn from the former mayor of Columbus that the abandoned rail line that we had been following from Douglas had been built from El Paso by Phelps Dodge to support the mines around Bisbee and the road that we used today was built upon the old rail grade. Straight with very few curves.

I found myself obsessed today with the Mile Markers. We receive daily a printed version of the routes, accessible to readers to the right on the blog. They include a map, elevation profile and a cue sheet with each turn and segment. I have tried to keep references to miles and terrain to a minimum, but I must admit that days and dates are oblivious to me but the details of each day's ride are on top of mind. Upon the completion of each day there is a sense of accomplishment and the good feeling that next day will be different.

BTW- We crossed the Continental Divide at 4520 ft the day of the long ride from Rodeo. The sight was so unremarkable I took a poorly lit picture into the sun and did not see the need to publish it.

Medical Update

Meant to work this into an earlier post but here is the latest news:

Good- no new cases of stomach virus and those inflicted seem recovered. 

Not so fast, we had three more riders succumb overnight and another rider need SAG support for day due to an unrelated condition.

Bad- we had one ride suffer stroke like symptoms and has withdrawn from the ride on advice from ER doc to seek a full neurological evaluation. We will miss Ed and Connie who were riding cute recumbent tricycles.

On a side note we will have a previously planned rider joining us tomorrow.

Day 15- Rest and Recovery

So, what do you know about Columbus, NM? Probably not more than I did before today. We visited the local Pancho Villa State Park that commorates a raid from Mexico that occurred a little less than 100 years ago. We were quickly overwhelmed by the complexity of the story and intersections of local and global politics of the day. In brief Mexico had been embroiled in a prolonged civil war that was threatening US industrial interests at the same time WWI was underway in Europe. Pancho Villa was losing sway in the Mexican conflicts and launched a raid into nearby Columbus for reasons that are still not clear. However, it gave the US plenty of reason to retaliate with an invasion of 10,000 cavalry troops under the command of General 'Blackjack' Pershing. The incursion lasted just a few months and Pancho Villa was not captured; however armored vehicles, mechanized trucks and cars as well a reconnaissance planes were all used for the first time in armed conflict. Who knew? All this was a precursor and training for the US involvement in the war in Europe not to mention an upcoming election for a second term for Woodrow Wilson.

On a much lighter and celebratory phase of the day we were shuttled a few miles south to Palomas, Mexico, where we drank free margaritas and lunched at The Pink House. Most of us are now napping this afternoon in anticipation of getting back on the road tomorrow and entering out third state, Texas.

Day 14- Rodeo to Columbus

This was sunrise in Rodeo. We were all up early and anxious to get started on the longest ride of the trip. The route was 96 miles and most wanted to add 4 more miles to achieve in the parlance of cyclists, a century. My only previous experience with this distance had been for me a difficult ride from home in Atlanta to Anniston, AL on a paved trail. Today's ride was planned perfectly with regular rest stops and a lunch of leftover meat loaf sandwiches and other choices in another speck of a town, Hichita. The best part was an increasingly strong wind from the west and a mostly gradual downhill. Sweet! I have, thanks to my daughter, Catherine, determined that my best gear is a downhill glide where little or no pedaling is required. We found ourselves riding along at 20+ mph with only a minimal effort. Virtually all of the riders completed their desired century. So, here we are in Columbus. More to follow tomorrow...

Day 13- Bisbee to Rodeo, NM

Note to Readers: Due to sparse cell service and total lack of wifi I have not been able to post the last three days. Thanks today to the Columbus, NM Library, even though closed, I am able to sit outside, enjoy the sunshine and cool breeze and access their wifi.

So, welcome to New Mexico after 9 days of great rides, scenery and medical adventures in Arizona we have now crossed our second state. The day started with a downhill reward for the effort on the previous day. We passed three contiguous open pit mines on the way out of Bisbee and enjoyed the long downhill slide into Douglas, AZ. This town appeared remarkably prosperous and provided a tasty stop at a local bakery and a one at a local Wells Fargo ATM. Yes, I did bike 2+ miles out of my way to save a $1 fee. The rest of the way was a bit uphill through open range land. We passed a memorial, pictured above, to Geronimo's surrender and the end of the Indian Wars just to the east and a little over 100 years ago.

The overnight stop in Rodeo was a hoot, even if just a speck on the map. Diane, the propriortress of the RV park where we camped (or stayed inside as I chose to do based on the cold weather forecast), told stories of Rodeo and its population of 70 hardy souls. We also heard from Captain Rick of the US Border Patrol and their efforts to secure our borders. He claimed that 60% of their arrests were related to drug smuggling and the rest were immigrants seeking work. He clearly enjoyed his job and the electronics gear used in his work. No one in the audience had the energy to take on a discussion of immigration policy.

Day 12- Tombstone to Bisbee

This day was a short ride with a steep 4 mile climb before entering a tunnel coming downhill into Bisbee. I was feeling great for the first time in three days. Fully recovered, I hope. So, pedaled up to almost 6000 ft above sea level and stopped to catch my breath. I had leaned my bike on a guard rail, sat in the shade and chatted with Jon and Hetty from the Netherlands. Upon getting ready to depart a sound like a gunshot occurred and I found holes and my tire and tube. I was stranded. Later, as I was picked up and brought into Bisbee I saw that I was less than 100 yards from the summit and then a nice 1 mile downhill into town. How frustrating to be so close. Nevertheless I enjoyed a sumptuous lunch of curried chicken and a fruit smoothie, my first real meal that looked and tasted delicious.

Bisbee is a funky little town built into the side of hills and had a thriving copper mining industry up until the 1970's. Now it appears to be inhabited by artists and others preferring a place a bit off the grid.

Day 11- E Tucson to Tombstone

We were like cowboys and cowgirls riding to Tombstone looking for a gunfight at the OK Corral. (More on that later) The route took us south and to a 25 mile, 3000 ft climb to 5000 ft above sea level. Then the fun began with a 1000 ft descent into Soinita for a lunch stop followed by 35 miles downhill with a tailwind. I hit 30 mph without pedaling. Wow, does not get any better than this.

Now a slight uphill from the San Pedro River into Tombstone and a surprise celebration. Good friends, Charlie and Johnny, on a drive by RV from Atlanta to Las Vegas met me and joined our biking group for a show and gunfight. So, what did you expect?

Charlie and Johnny passed on the group dinner and I chose to put myself to bed early. Feeling very much better this morning and ready to take on climb to Bisbee at 6000 ft above sea level.

Day 10- Catalina SP to E Tucson

We departed scenic Catalina State Park on a relatively short route, selected by Roland, one of the riders who just happens to live in Tucson. We generally went from north to southeast using off- road bike paths and later separated bike lanes on what proved to be busy urban streets. We left late (9:30) and dawdled along the way as the campground is another one between an Interstate highway and a railroad.

We stopped at the Pima Air Museum. Pictured above are just four planes among the 1000's on display and many many more in an adjacent boneyard. Apparently the military stores decommissioned planes here due to the dry climate that will preserve them.

On a bit of a down note 18 of us, including yours truly, have aquired a stomach virus not unlike what has broken out on cruise ships. Fortunately we have three doctors riding with us. Despite frequent reminders to remove sweaty gloves, use hand sanitizer and wash hands the virus is still spreading. Today we were all close to bathrooms and sources of water. Even so a few riders chose to take another day off. Then there are the ones who are dedicated to riding EFI.

Tomorrow it's on to Tombstone and a night in a hotel. What a treat and also expect to meet Charlie King and Johnny Hichens on their way by RV to Las Vegas.

Day 9- Rest

We are staying two nights in Catalina State Park on the north edge of Tucson and savoring our first rest day after a week and a day of riding. 

I had chance to spend the day with Eric, pictured above and a friend from my grade school time in Billings, MT. He drove out  20 miles from his home and took me on a city tour including a  25 mile drive and 8000 ft up Mt Lemon. We saw lots of young people cycling slowly up and speeding down the twisty road. It passed through 5 climate zones. 

Eric reminded me that he and his wife, Amy, were married 34 years ago today at a ceremony at the Windows of the World on top of the World Trade Center I'm New York. Thank you Eric for devoting time today with an old friend.

Day 8- Casa Grande to Tucson, AZ

Pictures, Pictures 

Day 7- Gila Bend to Casa Grande, AZ

Sorry, no photos again today. In my haste to get off to an early start on what was our longest ride (77 miles) I left my iPhone/ camera behind on a charging board. I have it back now and can compose this post. For those who access Facebook I have 'Liked' several photos from other riders and you should be able to see them.

Now for the ride, we thankfully left the Interstates and set out through the Sanora Desert National Monument. We climbed on a road that had many mini dips but was very smooth, as were all the roads today. We passed through what seemed like a forest of Saguaro cactus. Those are the big tall ones usually with two or more arms and look like human stick figures. I saw one cactus with 5 arms like a hand and another with arms that appeared to be hugging its torso. We expect to see more as we approach Tucson tomorrow and I hope to take pictures.

We took a break at a smoothie shop and yes, the Jamoca Heath Bar flavor was yummy. We stopped at another Mexican restaurant for lunch and I had a tongue taco in honor of my Grandmimi. She used to offer me tongue sandwiches whenever I visited her in NJ.

We passed by a number feed lots that we later learned held 150,000 cattle each for 90 days before slaughter. The vast majority were Holstein heifers not needed on dairy farms.

We are staying in a public high school tonight and we were fed a fabulous Italian dinner by their culanary arts students.

Addendum to yesterday's post- Bubba has a policy of inviting any touring cyclists that we encounter to join us for dinner, speak and stay overnight as well for breakfast. He feels that it is his payback for those who helped him on his cross country ride. So, last night we heard from Jeramie, a young man from Chester, VT who is running, yes that is right, from SC to CA to raise awareness of mental health (nami.org) and Pretty Big Run

Day 6- Dateland to Gila Bend, AZ

No pictures today. Relatively short ride on rough frontage road and smooth I-8 shoulder. No interesting places to photo except distant ridge lines that do not photograph well. Did have a tasty lunch at Sophia's Mexican Diner near the end of the ride. Greek menu for dinner.

Off to Casa Grande tomorrow-  77 miles.

Day 5- Yuma to Dateland, AZ

Today was our longest ride (70 miles) so far but it was fun. Everyday has been enjoyable but the ride out of Yuma included a chance to immerse ourselves in a salad bowl. We learned that 98% of the world's winter supply of lettuce comes from the fields pictured above. The laborers are unionized and the process to cut a head, remove the outer leaves, wash and bag the lettuce takes 10 seconds. A group of workers and their machine can harvest 46 acres a day. Two crops taking 120 days each to mature are raised annually.

We all stopped often to take pictures and soak in the vistas. Beautiful clear weather starting in the 50's and reaching the 80's today and predicted for at least the next week. Pinch me!

Several of us rewarded ourselves with date milk shakes at the end of today's ride. Shorter route (50 miles) planned for tomorrow to Gila Bend.

Train running by one side of the campground sounds and feels like it is coming right through the tent. I-8 on the other side. Sleep tonight should be interesting.

Day 4- Calexico to Yuma, AZ

One state down. We rode into Yuma, AZ this afternoon after another day on I-8 shoulders and two very rough frontage roads. Day started with a ride through the Imperial Valley farmlands. It is amazing to see what irrigation can produce in rich alluvial soil. Then it all quickly reverts into the Imperial Sand Dunes.

We stopped for lunch in Felicity, CA, the self-described Center of the World. See above. All. very weird. Lunch was prepared by the Mayor's wife and daughter, all apparently the sole residents of Felicity.

We are staying overnight in a new and quite commodious armory, just east of Yuma. 

Day 3- Live Oak Springs to Calexico, CA

We were rewarded today for our climbing efforts the first two days. We shuttled back up from the campground to Live Oak Springs and started descending almost immediately and at Mile 16 and a rest stop we got on I-8 for one scary 10 mile descent on a 6% grade. My front wheel started to shake but I stopped and calmed my nerves before setting out again.

We saw a bit of the border fence, pictured above, near Jacumba, before entering the Interstate. Also pictured above are Ann, our supreme chef and Serge, her husband and chore boy. 

Lunch for me was a chocolate banana milk shake and water and then off through the Yuha Desert past Exit 6, above, and landscape described as 'moon surface.'

The final 30 miles into Calexico was a bit tedious and anti-climatic after descending almost 4000 ft and then ending at a foot below sea level. Our stay tonight is being hosted by a Seventh Day Adventist mission school. Reminds me of a stop in French Camp, MS along the Natchez Trace where I was fed along other riders at a local school.

Day 2- Alpine to Live Oak Springs, CA

Today's ride is not one that I would plan. However, it had a bit of everything, starting in beautiful sunshine and in the 50's and with me taking a wrong turn out of the campground. That added 5 extra miles through white fenced range land. Cattle were seen grazing outside the fences. Upon rejoining the route I entered Interstate 8 going east and uphill. We stopped at a vista point at 3000 feet above sea level and could see the Pacific Ocean (pictured above) almost 40 miles away. Winds were gusting crossways and into our faces at 15-25 mph. We learned that you could keep a bicycle upright at only 4 mph. Pictured above in the lower right are three flags fully extended in front of a Border Patrol station.

We left I-8 and returned to US 80 which climbed almost continuously parallel to the Interstate. We did have two nice downhill runs but most of our day was a slow uphill climb to almost 5000 ft. We did have a nice stop for coffee and pastries in the cute town of Pine Valley.

The day ended fairly early and with a shuttle back to the campground near Alpine. We will stay overnight here again before being reshuttled in the morning back to Oak Springs to start tomorrow.

Day 1- San Diego to Alpine, CA

We are off after the requisite pictures by Nan and group photo before leaving Dog Beach. Should we be concerned? Saw some emu and ostrich along way. How did they get here? 

Lots of climbing (4000+ft) but not too steep just long. Staying in Viejas Indian reservation campground. Gratifying to have completed first day. 

Day 0

Nan flew out on Wednesday and we drove south stopping in La Jolla to visit a classmate of my father. What fun and Dick is still sharp and full of many fond recollections of my parents and their many travels together. We stayed overnight in the Ocean Beach community in San Diego. Today included getting a predatory buzz hair cut and attending an afternoon long planning meeting. One more day and we depart.

Three Flats

My friend, Phill, pictured above, drove down from Seal Beach to join me for a 25 mile ramble again through and around Newport Beach including a third return to Ruby's Diner, a sighting of kites, above, and a short ferry ride to Bilboa Island. Our ride was interrupted by three flat tires and the attendant time required to replace the tubes. We did find a kindly bike repair shop and a Starbucks to sit and sip while repairing the last flat. All and all not really such a bad day.

Newport Explore

 

Yesterday I had a leisurely ride around Newport Beach, CA, after a stop for Starbucks coffee exploring the Back Bay and it's restored marshland. Very nice trail with hills and turns around the bay. Then on to a short but daughting stretch of the Pacific Coast Highway before exiting towards the Bilboa Penninsula. Returned to Ruby's Diner (pictured above) on a pier for a most excellent BLT with avacado on grilled sourdough with parmasan cheese. Yummy and hope to come back again today.

Rode back upwind on a path along the beach passing one of the only elementary schools on a beach. Looked like the kids were enjoying their recess. Finally reached the end of the path and connected with the Santa Ana Trail and the way home.

Got back in time to see UNC survive a basketball game with Notre Dame- 12 straight wins but who's counting?

California Dreaming

My bike left Atlanta on Monday, Feb 24, and I flew to Los Angeles on Wed, Feb 26, to attend a Road Scholar board meeting. That evening I had the distinct honor of attending a performance of the Simon Bolivar Orchestra of Venezuela conducted by Gustav Dudamel. The seat was in the balcony not more than 25 feet from Dudamel and felt like being in the orchestra. (For those who would like to know more here is a link to the LA Times review: http://www.latimes.com/entertainment/arts/culture/la-et-cm-bolivars-tchaikovsky-review,0,4483344.story#axzz2urlvvm4c) The next day after meetings we journeyed to the shrine like Ronald Reagan Library west of LA in Simi Valley.

My bike and I were reunited on Saturday and I was able to get out Sunday for about 28 miles on the Santa Ana Trail. Here are a few pictures from the trail that follows a concrete encased river from Huntington Beach north through Anaheim.